Mexican Living: Christmas

I have no memory of Christmas, 2003. Now before you jump to one of those, "Oh, yeah we know," conclusions let me say that both my wife and I were deathly ill from some flu bug that we contracted while visiting San Miguel de Allende.

We spent Christmas, 2003, crawling to the bathroom and then back to bed. We were not even able to celebrate our wedding anniversary that was the day after Christmas.

This was to be our first Christmas in Mexico and we were disappointed to say the least.

Christmas, 2004, we were able to see a Mexican Christmas in Puerto Vallarta where we vacationed with some friends.

Christmas in Mexico is familiar and yet delightfully different--foreign. And, I must add, an exhausting month of celebrations.

The celebrations begin December 3rd with the LA VIRGEN DE GUADALUPE. This is the Patron Saint of Mexico whose celebration lasts until December 12th. They say The Virgin is "the Mother of God" as she appeared on Tepeyac, the pre-Hispanic site of the temple to Tontanslin.

Being more a symbol of Mexican nationalism, the Mexican devotion to her seems, at least to this author, to surpass the real religious veneration. The Virgin is what unites the normally strict and obvious social classes. She transcends class structure.

Though the celebration of the LA VIRGEN DE GUADALUPE seems foreign to the American's experience, the Mexican Nacimiento is all too familiar.

Spanish monks first introduced Nacimiento or The Nativity scene. It has since taken on some of the local tradition and influences.

For example, there is the "rooster crowing" to announce the birth of the Christ child. There is Satan lurking in his cave to tempt the shepherds on their journey to see the Christ child. There is also another uniquely Mexican twist to this Nativity:

"Foreigners are frequently confused when confronted by nativity scenes and other Christmas decorations all through January, and even into February. Even more puzzling to newcomers are 4 inch figures of Mary and Joseph and a nearly life-size Christ child. Nevertheless, there is tradition to explain this, too. On January 6, during the fiesta to honor the arrival of the Three Kings at the manger, a special ring-shaped bread called the Rosca?will be served. Baked into the bread is one or more small plastic figures of the Child God. The guests who find these images in their serving of bread are named the Godparents of the Christ Child from the Nacimiento. It is then their responsibility to host a party on February 2, El Dia de Candlelaria or the Day of Purification, the final celebration of a Christmas holiday which began on December 3 with the beginning of nine day celebration of The Virgin of Guadalupe." [1]

There are, of course, The Posadas. After the arrival of the Spaniards, this tradition of nine days of children's processions, a reenactment of the birth of Christ, the monks invented this as a means to evangelize the Aztecs.

"This procession symbolizes the journey made by Joseph and Mary from Nazareth to Bethlehem and Josephs search for shelter (Posada) at an Inn (also Posada). The peregrinos (pilgrims) include Joseph leading Mary on a burro, an Angel, shepherds, kings, and a large flock of excited, giggling, jostling, bumping, wiggling, shiny-eyed others, most with bright ribbon and flower decked shepherds?staffs which they tap in time to the music." [2]

The children march from house to house with "Joseph" asking for "room at the inn." They are refused until they hit the prearranged house where they are finally admitted and a party ensues.

There is so much more: The Piatas, The Pastorels, La Noche Buena, Navidad, the giving of La Flor de la Nochebuena, Dia de Innocents, and Ao Viejo and Ao Neuva.

Check out this web site for additional information:

http://www.mexconnect.com/mex_/feature/xmasindex.html

[1] Christmas Hoildays in Mexico: Festivals of Light, Love, and Peace; by Judy King [2] Ibid

Doug Bower is a freelance writer and book author. His most recent writing credits include The Atlanta Journal-Constitution, The Houston Chronicle, and The Philadelphia Inquirer, and Transitions Abroad. He lives with his wife in Guanajuato, Mexico.

His new book Mexican Living: Blogging it from a Third World Country can be seen at http://www.lulu.com/content/126241

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